At his workshop in the Cogon-Ramos area, Cary Santiago is cutting a swath of satin right on a collapsible mannequin called a stockman, draping the fabric into place, pin after pin. Three women are busy hand-stitching bias trims (with callado cutouts round the edges) on another gown on another stockman. In one corner, another pair of workers stoops over yards of cloth, unraveling silk fibers to create a fur-like effect for a jacket. Three sets of clothes, Santiago volunteers, that will comprise a significant segment of Nicolas Jebran’s fall-winter 2005 collection, are to be completed and shipped, in over a week’s time, to Lebanon, the homebase of the famous Middle-Eastern haute couture label that the designer works for.
Although he says he is on a “sartorial sabbatical,” Santiago has been making clothes for Jebran since he came back home in December 2003. In Jebran’s last season show, which was recently shown on FTV Channel, Santiago’s 9-man shop here in the city produced about 80% of the whole collection.
“After a long time, I came back to Cebu for a vacation,” he reveals. At first, I only wanted to stay here for a year to source out materials and inspiration for the collections I was going to do for Jebran. But I just got stuck here and decided to set a workshop here. What I have here is just one of the four workshops that Jebran maintains. Apart from Lebanon, the others are located in Abu Dhabi and India.”
Everything in this Cebu workshop is done by hand…well, except for the clothes’ base or underpinnings, using authentic Marco Lagatola tulle flown in from Lebanon. When he decided to set up a satellite workshop here, Santiago brought with him his 8-year experience in haute couture, and introduced couture technology (such as the stockman, laser-cutters, fabric adhesives and a number of corset patterns, those same ones that are being used in the houses of Lacroix, Dior, Westwood, etc.) that are not available in the local market.
When he begins to talk about his preferred palette for Jebran’s next collection, this auteur spews out a mouthful of Arabic. Banafsaji (purple). Wardi (rose). Dahab (champagne gold). Azrak (turquoise). This only proves that Santiago, who is well into his mid-30s, has imbibed much of middle-eastern life and culture. This holds more water though when he lets us into his unusually big prova (fitting) room that also functions as his private sanctuary, more especially when he has to brainstorm on his designs.
Found items from his travels in Dubai, India, Beirut have made their way into this room, including the wall-to-wall Persian carpet. Strewn all over are throw-pillows in made of Indian materials in multifarious solid colors. Even candleholders are of Persian origin.
“This is where I actually unwind; I’m basically a homebody,” he says. “I would rather snuggle in my bed with pillows and more pillows around me, and listen to my favorite selection of Arabic or Indian music. Or, watch DVD movies.”
Movies, both old and new, are a major source of inspiration, apart from nature. From Charlie Chaplin’s silent movies to Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, movies feed Santiago’s creative hunger. In fact, his 2003 fall-winter collection he masterminded for Jebran was a couture interpretation of how the movie, The Last of the Mohicans, struck him at the core. Not just because Daniel Day-Lewis happens to be one of his film icons. Thus, the clothes turned out to be a postmodernistic take on the North American Indian culture, sending the models strutting the runway replete with maximalist Indian headpieces and accessories.
But not unlike other designers who look to the French and Roman runways for design ideas, Santiago admits he admires the works of Gianfranco Ferre, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Steve McQueen, Christian Lacroix and John Galliano. “Each of them has his own unique style and they see fashion in their own peculiar ways. In that sense, this sets them apart from their American counterparts.”
However, Santiago admitted that when he designs, especially for Jebran, he always has the international audience in his mind. No matter the urge he has to at least replicate the latest silhouettes or cuts or looks that flow out of the European runways, he has no choice but to rely on his capacity to produce more original, if not, distinctive, works. “At Jebran, we always think that these couture masters are our competition, and that our shows are being covered by international fashion magazines and FTV.”
Not only has this intense desire for originality worked for Jebran, now one of the most important haute couture houses in the Middle East, it also made wonders for Santiago when he joined in last year’s edition of the Philippine Fashion Design Competition (PFDC). He baffled Manila’s fashionistas and style connoisseurs with his entry called “Pag-asa, the Philippine Dream,” and romped off the grand prize. Santiago bested 23 other national finalists (6 of them from Cebu). That makes him the first Cebuano designer to achieve such feat since the competition started in the late 80s.
Santiago went on to lead 9 other Filipino representatives in the international competition, the Concours International des Jeunes Createurs de Mode (International Young Fashion Designers’ Competition) held in December last year in Paris, France.
“I was surprised by the turn of events. I came back to the Philippines only for a vacation; I got bored and thought of joining the competition,” he says.
Based on the international competition’s theme “Ecology and Environment” and the national finals’ secondary theme of “Rebirth and Renewal: The Philippine Butterfly” (with reference to the terno’s butterfly sleeves), Santiago created an entry done in handloomed jusi that was dyed in choco brown and painstakingly cut into strips (with real lawin quills insertions between fabrics) to resemble eagle’s feathers.
The gown, all done by hand and without the aid of machines, alone consumed about 120 meters of jusi and over 5,000 quills of different sizes and thickness, and was completed in a span of one month.
Santiago started designing professionally at the age of 15, when a local RTW company hired him as a part-time designer. In 1990, the late Nikki Crodua took notice of his talent and brought him in to do custom-made clothes at Crodua’s P. del Rosario atelier. Since then, Santiago’s career in the local rag trade took an ascending route.
However, about 8 years ago, Santiago found himself at the crossroads of his career, where his thirst for growth needed some quenching. After seriously mulling over an offer from an Arab employer, he flew to Dubai, worked at Al Hazar, before he finally moved to Jebran.
“My stint in Jebran has made me discover a lot about myself. It also showed me the limits of what I can do. I relish the feeling that now I am designing clothes without being dictated by a client or the current predominant fashion trends.”
Having set up a workshop in such an unfashionable area in the city only reveals the kind of independent attitude and mindset this designer possesses. Santiago has learned to work to maintain the sphere of his creativity, more often drawing and redrawing the boundaries of his creativity and unique style sense.
Although his silhouettes are deceptively simple and lean towards the classic, his sleight-of-hand is luminous with the way he conceives and orchestrates the details to create a look that is nothing short of theatrical. Theatrics, minus the uncalled-for frivolity.
His designs, rife with poetry or poetic nuances, are never austere, echoing Christian Lacroix’s adage, “Too much is never enough” – if only to express and evoke, with so much skill and passion, his design visions. Something he has learned to master in his stint abroad.
“Because the clothes I am doing now are for Jebran’s shows, I work within a specific concept. I normally start with one idea. And as I go along, the idea just keeps on expanding and expanding.”
He continues, “The word fashion show calls for a designer to really show something. Not necessarily to set a trend but to make a statement. As for me, the whole look of a show must be composed like an art form. An haute couture show elevates fashion to an art form, the way the masters like Lacroix and Galliano do theirs.”
But, we ask, what is haute couture? Santiago squints, and mutters, “When I was in Paris, I spoke to one of the teachers at Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. I asked her what is an haute couture designer. She answered, a designer is someone who designs; an haute couture designer is something else, who she calls la createur, who creates something. Thus, haute couture is more about creating, creation…and the art of doing it.”